First Look at Israel
After the over 16 hours of planes, trains, and automobiles it took getting to Israel, I was over the moon to see in the itinerary we would be getting some fresh air on a hike through the Golan heights near Mt. Bental. Due to being on the Syrian-African ridge, where the African and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, the Golan consists of a geological fusion of limestone and volcanic mountains with a never ending series of breathtaking vistas such as a trio of waterfalls cutting new channels into the mountain and creating an oasis below; an absolutely stunning contrast between the sparse desert rocks and fertile valleys. (See my new Facebook profile picture for more). The long hike was also the perfect opportunity to get to know everyone else on the trip.
After the hike, we mentally prepared ourselves for the most sacred holy tradition in the promised land; our first falafel of the trip! I do not know, nor will I ever know the mysteries of the Israeli street vendor (it's probably closely guarded in the highest level of the Kabbalah) but there is a strong spiritual presence in anyone who can give life to a falafel ball that combines a golden brown outer shell, a firm crispy texture with a true crunch on the bite, and an inner soft pillow of mashed chickpeas that despite being the subject to an intense flash fry, maintains the strong pronounced taste of the native spices that simultaneously hit every sweet and savory taste receptor on the tongue. Like everything else in Israel, the noble falafel finds a way to thrive in the inhospitable.
Atop of Mt. Bental, we were educated on harsh history of the Golani region. From a Syrian bunker taken by the IDF in the Six Day War, we were able to see with our own eyes the incredible proximity between Sea of Galilee, the Israeli Kibbutzim in the Golan valley, and the Syrian border. We were also taught the politics of middle eastern water reserves and the strategic value the Golan serves in preventing continued Syrian efforts to eliminate the Galilee's tributaries and claim over half of Israel's largest source of freshwater for themselves.
As we prepared to leave Mt. Bental, we were thrust into the the true experiences of the Israeli people. From atop the bunker we were able to look across the border and see a nation in turmoil. While the closest Syrian city to the border is controlled by Assad's forces, all the surrounding villages are controlled by various Al Qaeda affiliates. What just 15 minutes before was an interesting piece of trivia about a sea of white dots on the horizon, became a symbol of the continued struggle for peace as a large explosion cut through the air. While we did not see smoke and fire, we later learned that an air strike had been carried out to assassinate a top ISIS commander in a town just miles from where we were standing. What has stayed with me most was the juxtaposition of our situation to the solemnity with which Americans are taught to treat war. The experience that shook me was just "Monday" to everyone who lives there. We were still eating ice cream, checking out the gift shop, and putting shekels in the viewfinder while just about half the distance of my daily morning commute away, a war was raging. To me, Shorashim is a program to bring Israelis and Americans together, it is a program where we learn how much we have in common and to have a better understanding of our differences. For the Israelis in the Golan, the ever present shadow in the east does nothing to deter them from raising their families, working hard, or playing harder. I am happy I was able to have a brief taste of the true Israeli life and set the context for the incredible cultural journey.
